Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. Any suggestions? I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. Though they both are indications of the amount of opening through the throttle body, the TPS is the throttle opening percentage and the IAC number tells us how far the IAC stepper motor is opening the bypass air circuit.If I understand you correctly you are saying that the TPS reads somewhat normally (traveling from 9% to 100% or so) but that when you cycle the key it once again starts at 9%. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. Then your low idle problem will go away. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator?
Sniper EFI Initial Startup and Troubleshooting Staff Writer 01/20/2020 I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. I did change the -40 thing also. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. Should the iac% fluctuate? This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. So the issue Im having is low idle. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. back to trying to zero down an idle. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). Did you find this enlightening? When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. I can get it to fire up on the Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. Enjoy! Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. Capability Range: Professional Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. I'd really appreciate some help. Thanks for the great question! In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. You could go either way.. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. You advise would be greatly appreciated. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. Thank you very much. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. Your task will be to find that. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. If more info is needed just ask. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the He said they have been having an issue with these lately. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. Save Share. Please help. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block You are aware of the idle-up problem. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. I've changed all the So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem.
IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems Great work, expert! However, I have never found that to be the case. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. We do that but most places don't. Seems to behave more better now. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. It will need to see it again and again. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you!
Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Master Kit - Black Ceramic Finish That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying.